The latest pictures were taken earlier today in Duluth, MN. It is in industrial city, having mostly to do with its being the furthest inland port in the US. I crossed over the the St. Lawrence River to visit Superior, WI, so that I could pedal over the bridge, get some pictures and get another state under the belt.
Day 69: Pine City to Moose Lake, MN: 50
miles
The seasons are changing. This was
difficult to notice for the first couple of months of this trip, due
to the fact that I started off in a very wet, cool Oregon in the
middle of summer. Rain has found me in nearly every state, and
Minnesota is no exception. Today was the coldest riding day I've
had, and yesterday threw both wind and water at me. Two days before
I arrived in Minneapolis, it was 90 degrees, and I couldn't drink
enough water to stay hydrated. This morning when I left, it was 45
degrees, I barely drank 3 quarts all day, and had to stop every hour
to pee.
Fall colors abound on the endless bike
paths of Minnesota. I spent most of the last two days isolated from
highway and city by a line of trees of varying width, all of which
are beginning their preparations for the winter. I cannot remember
the last time I saw so many shades of pink and orange. It has been a
long time since I've been anywhere but California for an autumn, and
mostly in deserts or on seashores for the last several years. I feel
as though the change in the seasons is somehow coinciding with the
change in pace of my trip, as I get ready to settle in one place for
a while. The world is telling me that great things await in the
north.
I spent exactly one week off the bike.
During that time, I prepared for, helped with, and attended the
wedding of my great friend Greg Krajacic as one of 6 groomsmen. Greg
and I were roommates in college for 2 years, and became constant
revered companions. We also played Ultimate frisbee on the same
team, and 8 of our teammates (not including Greg and I) also attended
the wedding. This made for a posse of awesome dudes with whom to
pre-party as well as celebrate with during the event. We all had a
great time together playing soccer, poker, quarters, wrestling and
dancing our butts off at the wedding. As is to be expected with such
a group of dynamic, motivated, intelligent and energetic guys, I
enjoyed their company thoroughly.
As I grow older, I begin noticing
different things about such gatherings as weddings. It has been
longer than I can remember since I attended a traditional wedding
without a partner, and even then, the last wedding I attended was
over 3 years ago. At Greg's wedding, I noticed that there were
nearly zero single, unattached women close to my age. I think part
of this could be due to the fact that it took place in the mid-west,
but age must also be a factor. About half of my frisbee teammates
are now married, with several others engaged or about to be. All of
the bridesmaids were either married, engaged or in a committed
relationship. For the second time in my adult life, I have not been
in a committed relationship for about 6 months. I must admit that
this is certainly intentional to some degree (how could I have a
girlfriend somewhere and ride my bike around the nation?), but it is
also a unique circumstance for me. In a few months I will turn 30,
and though I don't feel that this will limit anything I'm trying to
do, it is making me aware of how I'm using my time, and who I'm
spending it with.
Due to the fact that Greg and I have
the same first name, we generally go by our frisbee nicknames when we
spend time together, so I'm “Ace” and he's “Krackerjack”.
Everyone in Greg's family knows me as Ace, and to simplify things,
this is how I was introduced to a number of people at the wedding.
Greg and I got to spend an hour or so just the two of us as we drove
to the airport to pick up his brother, Chris. We chatted about life,
and it was nice to notice that we are able to maintain the high level
of understanding that we always had when conversing in college.
There aren't too many people who I can have that kind of candid,
connected conversation with, and it dawned on me how much I
appreciate Greg's friendship for just that reason. As he is taking
steps to move on to the next phase of his life having married, bought
a house, and planning children not too far down the line, it is
comforting to me to see how our friendship will evolve and grow and
remain intact. Connecting with friends whom I haven't seen in a long
time was one of the primary reasons I undertook this trip, and I'm so
glad I did.
Another friend who I was able to spend
a few hours with was Jenna. Jenna and I went on a bicycle tour
through Southeast Asia two years ago, and had an amazing adventure.
It was that trip, with Jenna's help, that showed me what an amazing
way to travel cycling can be. Upon my return from Asia, I was
immediately motivated to begin planning my next bicycle tour, this
time in my own country.
Jenna is in graduate school and the
University of Minnesota for Occupational Therapy. She has found a
great apartment in a very culturally diverse neighborhood in the
heart of Minneapolis. We had dinner together at a Somali restaurant
after walking through a Somali market. Inside the market, I felt
immediately transported back to the markets of Costa Rica or
Cambodia. Narrow isles lined with dimly lit stalls displaying all
manner of watches, clothing, trinkets and tons
of absolutely gorgeous cloth. The religion of most Somali immigrants
in Minneapolis is Islam, and it occurred to me that many of the women
must make their own clothing, which involves much more material than
the clothing of most non-islamic women. Jenna and I still get along
perfectly well, and it was very comforting to see her thriving and
enjoying her new environment.
Many sayings,
phrases and bits of advice have stuck with me from a young age. One
that always seemed to make sense was, “The more you know, the more
you know you don't know.” I suppose this is referring to the fact
that as we become more educated and knowledgeable as people, we begin
to understand that there is SO much more knowledge and information in
the world than we could possibly expect to learn in a lifetime.
There are definitely times in my life when I lost sight of this
concept.
I remember being
17, a junior in high school, and having the parents of a friend or
two ask me what I was going to do with my life. I was very confident
that I was going to be an actor and that I had the world figured out.
I had trouble understanding why so many people struggled at making
sense of life, when I, at 17, had everything figured out. Entering
college and having my brain filled with mounds of information that I
never knew existed was a lengthly process, but it certainly humbled
me in terms of making me realize the quantity of knowledge that I
would never be able to obtain. That process probably helped me to
build more character than many other things I've done in my life.
I had a similar
experience in 2006 when, in combination with getting a job where I
was backpacking and camping all the time, a loved and respected
colleague from college began a bicycle tour from Los Angeles to the
tip of Argentina. Both of these expansions of what is possible in
life filled my head with even further possibilities, greater
achievements, vaster realms of knowledge on physical, spiritual and
emotional levels, rather than purely intellectual knowledge, which is
what I had primarily focused on previously.
At this point, I
feel like I'm in the midst of having another “aha” moment, where
some previously overlooked realm of possibility reveals itself to me.
College was one of those “moments,”, but I don't think this one
will take quite as long. My recent trips to Berlin and Australia,
falling in love with an artist and experiencing the world through her
eyes, have played an important role in helping me step out of the
box of creative understanding that I now know I was previously in.
The bicycle trip is helping me to drop my very strong, thoroughly
implanted preconceived notions of the lifestyles, attitudes and
behaviors of people all across America. My new job, which will send
me back into the wilderness, where my current lifestyle was born,
waits for me only a few days away. I am excited and open and ready.
Last night, I had a
tremendous couch-surfing experience once again. I stayed in Pine
City with Val and his pitbull mutt, Angel, a total sweetheart of an
animal. Val and I operate on the same wavelength. The man is doing
all he can to improve the world around him, while enriching his own
life in the process. We chatted about martial arts (he teaches),
economics (he has a degree, but hasn't used it), animal rescue and
corporate irresponsibility. He used to race bicycles until he got
into a bad crash, and now he just restores classics once in a while.
We both snowboard. If it's yellow, we let it mellow. We got along
great right from the start, as he gave me the tour of his cozy home,
decorated with furniture from garage sales which he has fixed up and
made worthy of collectors.
For dinner, we
ended up at Froggy's pub for burgers. I ordered the ½ pound Froggy
special, with everything on it (onions, lettuce, tomato, pickles, 3
kinds of cheese, mushrooms, jalapenos, bacon), and finished it while
Val still had 1/3 left of his slightly smaller burger. It sure hit
the spot. While we waited for our food, ate it, and for quite a
while afterward, Val and I were entertained by Frank J Cummings, a
retired police officer from Missouri. Frank was about drunk and half
when we came in, and continued ordering himself pitchers of beer the
whole time we were there. At 58 years of age, he looked 70 (the age
he told us at first), and reminded us constantly that he was “one
mean son of a !#@%$” He immediately told Val and I that we looked
like the Beegees, and then insisted that we were federal agents.
Frank was loud and smart-mouthed and full of wise-cracks, but never
quite hit the point of mean-spirited. He did impressions of several
famous people, sang a line from a song every now and then, and tried
to impress every women who'd look at him. Anytime anyone asked him a
question, his reply was, “none of your business!” Since Val and I
were sitting right next to him at the bar, we were the “watch this”
guys of choice, and I think we satisfied his need for attention. He
insisted that I looked like Kid Rock (blech!), and ended up giving me
his address in Missouri, so that I can come visit when I go through.
I think I just might.
Ace,
ReplyDeleteYou are a phenomenal writer! When I start reading one of your blogs, I can't stop! Seeing you for the week of my wedding was a true pleasure, and I share your exact same sentiments. It was great spending time with you and our mutual friends. Enjoy the next leg of your adventure up North, and see you when you get back! Love ya, brother!
-Krackerjack